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When curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.